Luzon, Philippines
Luzon Loop
Nineteen days from Manila through surf towns, colonial streets and the Cordillera's rice terraces.
~2,000 km
Distance
19 days
Duration
Challenging
Difficulty
May 2024
Trip Date
The Luzon Loop turned into one of the most exhilarating motorcycle trips I've ever done, riding the length of Luzon in the Philippines. I started from Manila, the capital, and rode through beach towns like Baler and Saud, cities full of character like Vigan and Baguio, and up into the Cordillera mountains, where the rice terraces of Banaue and Batad left me speechless. Along the way I kept running into pockets of indigenous culture and tradition I'd never seen anywhere else in Asia. The road threw a bit of everything at me: tight curves, steep climbs, descents that had me gripping the brakes. Every bend, though, opened onto some new view, and the people I met along the way were consistently warm and welcoming. I ended up taking 19 days and 18 nights, hitting every major stop and adding in a few smaller towns nobody talks about.
The Route
Here's the rundown of the places I stopped at, in case it helps you plan your own version of this loop:
Manila
My starting point for the whole thing, and a good place to stock up on anything I needed before setting off.
Cabanatuan
The first stop didn't have much in the way of sights, but it worked as a break on the way to Baler and gave me a taste of local life away from any tourist trail.
Baler
A coastal town known for good surf, gorgeous coastal views and waterfalls. I ended up staying a couple of nights.
Santiago
A mid-sized town with basically nothing for tourists. It's just a convenient stop on the way to Tuguegarao.
Tuguegarao
This city won me over with its food and the extraordinary Callao Cave just outside town. Worth a night.
Saud
A postcard pretty coastal town in Ilocos Norte, white sand and clear water, perfect after a long stretch on the bike.
Laoag
A stop to break up the ride between Saud and Vigan, with a few good sights along the way.
Vigan
A UNESCO World Heritage town, its streets and architecture still carrying that Spanish colonial feel.
Buscalan
My first stop in the Cordillera, and it felt like stepping into another era. Getting tattooed by the centenarian Apo Whang-od was unforgettable.
Sagada
Another mountain village that charmed me completely, with caves to explore, hanging coffins, and views that felt almost otherworldly.
Batad
A village ringed by hundreds of terraced rice fields. One night here was enough to leave me stunned.
Banaue
A lively mountain town, a good place to spend the night before leaving the Cordillera behind.
Bayombong
Nothing much to see, but a solid stopover on the way to Baguio.
Baguio
Cool climate, great food, and easily one of my favorite stops. I gave it at least two nights to properly relax and eat well.
Angeles
Known as the "Sin City" of the Philippines. Not much in the way of views, but famous for its nightlife and some genuinely odd local dishes.
Manila→Cabanatuan1
Cabanatuan
1Cabanatuan→Baler2
Arriving in Baler
Baler2
2Baler→Santiago3
One of the Prettiest Coastal Rides on the Loop
3Santiago→Tuguegarao4
4Tuguegarao→Saud5
5Saud→Laoag6
6Laoag→Vigan7
7Vigan→Buscalan8
Ninety Percent Curves, All the Way to Buscalan
Buscalan8
Getting Tattooed by Apo Whang-od
8Buscalan→Sagada9
Bomod-ok Falls
Sagada9
9Sagada→Batad10
Batad's Rice Terraces
10Batad→Banaue11
First Light on Batad's Terraces
11Banaue→Bayombong12
Leaving the Mountains of Ifugao Behind
12Bayombong→Baguio13
Climbing Back Up Into Benguet Province
Baguio13
The Bamboo Forest at Mirador Park
13Baguio→Angeles14
Dropping Back Down From Benguet Province
14Angeles→Manila
The Long Crawl Back Into Manila
Nineteen days, roughly 2,000 km, and more mountains, rice terraces and small towns than I could properly process at the time. Proof that this loop doesn't have to be an expensive undertaking to be one of the best rides I've done in Asia.
Trip Info